Patek Philippe 5990: A Comprehensive Review of the Nautilus Travel Time

Since its debut in 2014, the Patek Philippe 5990 has captivated the horology, fashion, and investment world. As a successor to the 5980, the 5990 combines chronograph functionality with a dual time zone display. This makes it both practical and sophisticated. Its sleek stainless steel design and iconic Nautilus silhouette make it a standout piece in any wardrobe.

From an investment perspective, the Patek Philippe 5990 is a compelling choice. Its limited production and high demand have solidified its position as a valuable asset. For collectors, the 5990 represents a coveted addition to any portfolio. It offers a balance of complexity and wearability that few timepieces can match. This timepiece may not be the most intricate Nautilus model (that title belongs to the 5740). Yet, its relative affordability compared to its counterparts makes it an accessible yet highly desirable option.

Features of the Patek Philippe 5990

A Seamless Dual Time Zone Functionality

Patek Philippe introduced its innovative Travel Time function in 2011 with the Aquanaut 5164, designed for the modern traveler. Recognizing its success, the brand integrated this feature into the Nautilus 5990 in 2014. By doing so, it elevated its collection with enhanced practicality.

The Nautilus 5990 was crafted for those who navigate international lifestyles. It allows wearers to track both home and local time effortlessly. The dial features two-hour hands positioned on the same axis. One is skeletonized for home time and a solid hour hand for local time. Adjusting the time zones is seamless, thanks to the intuitive push correctors on the case. These correctors allow for quick hour changes in both directions.

This function is a statement of refined practicality for those who frequently travel across time zones. Rather than relying on digital tools, the 5990 places a sophisticated dual time zone display on your wrist. Hence, it keeps you effortlessly connected to both your origin and destination.

Refined Case and Timeless Aesthetics

At first glance, the 5990 retains the iconic design language of the Nautilus series. However, a closer look reveals distinct refinements. The stainless steel case measures just over 40mm, giving it a strong and confident presence. Its thickness of 12.5mm stands slightly bolder than previous Nautilus models. Despite its increased size, the watch maintains an elegant, compact look and feels remarkably comfortable on the wrist.

The dial showcases a perfectly balanced design with a dual time zone display at the center. A date subdial sits neatly at the 12 o’clock position for easy readability. This date function automatically synchronizes with local time, eliminating the hassle of manual adjustments when crossing time zones. It’s a subtle yet highly functional detail that enhances usability without compromising the Nautilus’s signature sophistication.

Precision and Innovation: The CH 28-520 CFUS Movement

The complications in the Nautilus 5990 aren’t entirely new to Patek Philippe. However, combining them into one timepiece is a remarkable achievement. To enhance the exclusivity of the 5990, Patek Philippe introduced the CH 28-520 CFUS movement. This advanced caliber seamlessly integrates chronograph and dual time zone functions.

Building on the foundation of the 5980, the 5990 features an upgraded chronograph mechanism. It includes a column wheel and a high-tech disk clutch for smoother performance. Patek Philippe enhanced the chronograph display for better readability. The 5990 replaces the monocounter from the 5980 with a more intuitive 60-minute counter.

A Masterfully Crafted Bracelet

The Nautilus 5990 features one of the most exquisite stainless steel bracelets in the entire collection. Its brushed and polished surfaces create a striking contrast. Meanwhile, the mirror-like edges reflect Patek Philippe’s dedication to craftsmanship.

Beyond its beauty, the bracelet is designed for superior comfort. The seamless tapering and the elegantly engineered fold-over clasp ensure a secure yet flexible fit. Whether worn daily or during travel, the bracelet’s ergonomic design makes it feel weightless on the wrist. This reinforces the Nautilus 5990’s reputation as the ultimate luxury sports watch.

Variations of the Patek Philippe 5990: A Legacy of Excellence

The Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph has evolved over the years. It offers collectors multiple versions that blend precision, functionality, and timeless style. Each variation showcases its commitment to creativity and luxury from its initial launch in 2014 to the latest models. Below, we explore the key differences between the 5990/1A-001, 5990/1A-011, and the 5990/1R-001.

Patek Philippe 5990/1A-001: The Original Icon

Released in 2014, the 5990/1A-001 was the first version of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph. It features a stainless steel case and bracelet with a distinctive black gradient dial. This model quickly became a collector’s favorite due to its elegant yet sporty design and dual time zone functionality.

Key Features

• Case: 40.5mm stainless steel
• Dial: Black gradient effect, darkening at the edges
• Functions: Dual time zone, flyback chronograph, date display
• Bracelet: Stainless steel with a fold-over clasp
• Water Resistance: 120 meters
• Movement: CH 28-520 C FUS automatic caliber

In 2022, Patek Philippe discontinued the 5990/1A-001, further increasing its desirability in the secondary market. With its functionality and modern aesthetics blend, this version remains a sought-after piece among watch enthusiasts.

Patek Philippe 5990/1A-011: The Contemporary Successor

Released in 2022, the Patek Philippe 5990/1A-011 replaced the discontinued 5990/1A-001. It maintains the signature Nautilus design, introducing a blue sunburst dial with a gradient effect. This update aligns it with the modern aesthetics of the Nautilus collection.

What’s New?

• Dial Update: Blue sunburst dial replacing the black gradient of the 5990/1A-001.
• Bracelet Upgrade: Features a modern butterfly-style clasp with an integrated extension system for added comfort.
• Same Nautilus Heritage: Retains the 40.5mm stainless steel case, dual time zone, and flyback chronograph function.

The 5990/1A-011 preserves the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph’s legacy with a refreshed dial and updated bracelet. These modern refinements ensure a sleek look and superior comfort.

Patek Philippe 5990/1R-001: The Ultimate Luxury Edition

Do you seek the pinnacle of elegance? Patek Philippe introduced the 5990/1R-001 in 2021, crafted entirely from 18k rose gold. This version elevates the collection with a warmer, more luxurious aesthetic. Yet it maintains the same cutting-edge movement and dual time zone functionality.

Defining Features:

• Material: 18k rose gold case and bracelet
• Dial: Blue sunburst (without gradient effect)
• Hands & Markers: Rose gold, complementing the case
• Movement: CH 28-520 C FUS, with dual time zone and flyback chronograph
• Updated Clasp: Same integrated extension system as the 5990/1A-011

This model is the most opulent version of the 5990. It is designed for collectors who appreciate fine craft and exceptional materials.

A Collector’s Perspective: Which Patek Philippe 5990 Is Right for You?

Each Patek Philippe 5990 variation brings something unique to the table:

• The 5990/1A-001 holds historical significance as the first in the series. It is highly collectible since its discontinuation in 2022.
• The 5990/1A-011 offers a modern refresh with a blue sunburst dial and an upgraded bracelet. This makes it the perfect contemporary option.
• The 5990/1R-001 delivers unparalleled luxury with its solid rose gold construction. This makes it the most exclusive Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph.

Are you drawn to the classic appeal of stainless steel or the elevated finesse of rose gold? The Patek Philippe 5990 remains a masterpiece of horology, seamlessly blending functionality, style, and prestige.

Patek Philippe 5990 Price

The Patek Philippe 5990 price reflects its enduring market demand. Retail prices start at $68,600 for the stainless steel ref. 5990/1A-011 and $118,280 for the ref. 5990/1R-001 in 18k rose gold. However, acquiring these watches at retail is no easy feat. With global demand far exceeding supply, most Patek Philippe 5990 for sale listings on the secondary market command prices well above retail—often reaching more than twice their original cost.

Among the variations, the discontinued black dial ref. 5990/1A-001 is generally the most accessible, though even the lowest-priced examples still trade above six figures. Produced from 2014 to 2022, this version is more readily available than the newer blue dial ref. 5990/1A-011, released in 2022. However, the availability ratio will shift as time passes, making the blue dial edition increasingly sought-after.

For collectors and investors, condition plays a crucial role in pricing. Pre-owned 5990/1A-001 models vary significantly, depending on wear and maintenance. The 18k rose gold ref. 5990/1R-001 is the most expensive version at retail and in resale markets. Meanwhile, rare co-branded editions—such as those with Tiffany & Co. dials—can fetch premiums well into the hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Unless you have an exceptional relationship with a Patek Philippe boutique, securing a Patek Philippe 5990 for sale at retail is nearly impossible. Expect a premium on the secondary market, where prices consistently exceed six figures. With its flyback chronograph and innovative dual-timezone complication, the Patek Philippe 5990 remains one of the most technologically advanced Nautilus models, cementing its status as a true collector’s masterpiece.

Conclusion

The Patek Philippe 5990 is a design, functionality, and investment appeal masterpiece. It features a dual time zone, flyback chronograph, and the famous Nautilus design. These elements make it one of the most coveted luxury sports watches.

Do you prefer the historical 5990/1A-001, the modern 5990/1A-011, or the opulent 5990/1R-001? Each variation offers exceptional craftsmanship and long-term value. Given its limited production and soaring demand, securing a Patek Philippe 5990 for sale at retail is nearly impossible. Secondary market prices often exceed twice their original retail cost, reinforcing its status as a true collector’s asset.